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It is an important part of a locksmith’s skills to know how to pick locks (i.e. open a lock non-destructively without the key). But there is also a large community of non-locksmith lock picking enthusiasts who enjoy the challenge of trying to figure out how to open a lock. Rather like a puzzle, you have to work out how a lock operates and how to bypass it without the key. It is not for everyone, but some people spend hours and hours of picking locks – for fun!
Perhaps you have been given a lock pick set as a gift and you are considering taking this up as a hobby, or maybe you are considering becoming a locksmith. Or maybe you have something that is locked and you want to get it unlocked, but do not want to pay for a locksmith and it is not that urgent. This article on How To Pick Locks is designed for beginners into lock picking to give an overview of the principles that are needed to pick locks.
It is just a starting point and it will not go into specific details about specific locks in order that it does not teach people too much to prevent those who may want to use that knowledge to break into properties.
Before you can start to pick locks you need to understand the different types of locks there are in order to work out the correct tools to use and to deploy the correct technique.
There are three broad types of locks you will come across:
These are the most common type of lock used in UK households. They typically come in the form of euro cylinders, rim cylinders and padlocks.
When a key is inserted into the lock it pushes down the pins all to the correct height and the point at which they all line up is called the ‘shear line’. Once they are all at the right height, you rotate the key to open the lock.
The number of pins there are, the harder it is to pick. Also lock manufacturers mix-up the shapes of the pins and use different materials to try to make lock picking more difficult.
If you have the key, the number of pins can be worked out by counting the number of ‘valleys’ (in between the points) on a key.
You will need a tension wrench and a series of different lock picks.
These are probably the most difficult type of household lock to pick and they need a specialist lock picking tool. Some people refer to these locks as ‘Chubb’ locks or deadlocks. The keys look like a metal rod with a bit on the end. Mortice locks normally come with 2, 3 or 5 levers. A lever is normally made from brass and with a spring attached. The more levers, the harder they are to pick. As you turn the key, the levers all lift to a predetermined height that open a ‘gate’ for the bolt (the specific part is actually the bolt ‘stump’) to go through to lock and unlock.
These locks are the easiest to pick. They are found on things like cabinets, window handles, lockers, mail boxes, old style garage handles and security boxes. They have a series of spring loaded ‘wafers’ (essentially thin pieces of metal pressed into flat rectangular shapes that go through the centre of the lock. As the key is inserted, it moves the wafers out of the way and releases the core (or ‘plug’) to rotate to lock and unlock.
Regardless of the lock, there are some fundamental principles that any aspiring lock picker needs to understand. Lock picking takes advantages of imperfections in the manufacturing process meaning that certain tolerances exist that can be exploited.
It all starts with tension. Regardless of the lock, a lock picker has to replicate the turning action of the key and this is done with a tension wrench.
There are lots of shapes and sizes and you will need a variety for different tensioning tools. Probably the most critical and difficult point is the amount of tension (or pressure to apply).
Most beginners make the mistake of applying too much pressure. The tension wrench should not bend. It is mostly a light tension that is needed (to give you an idea, start with the amount of pressure it takes to press a key on a computer keyboard). But you need to experiment.
Each lock might require a different tension and then often you have to change the tension whilst working on one lock. Too much tension will prevent the pins, levers or wafers from moving at all. Whilst picking a lock, you have to apply tension the whole time – once you release the tension, you have to start all over again.
Once the correct tension is applied, you need to manipulate the pins, levers or wafers with the appropriate tool. As you test each pin, lever or wafer, you may feel very subtle movements in the tension wrench. This is a good sign and you should get used to the feeling of the very small movement (known as ‘feedback’). The golden rule is that if a pin or lever moves freely, then leave it alone – you need to find the pin/lever that has some resistance when you try to move it.
Locks tend to have a ‘binding order’ order meaning that as each pin, lever or wafer is manipulated to the correct position, then this results in another pin, lever or wafer now needing to be found and moved to the correct position. Once all pins, levers or wafers are at the right height, the lock should open.
If you move the pin, lever or wafer too far, then you can over-set the lock and then you will need to release and start again. Lock manufacturers design in traps for lock pickers and the better locks have ‘false sets’ meaning the lock gets stuck somewhere and you have to start again.
‘Raking’ is when you take an appropriate pick and wiggle it up and down whilst tension is being applied. It works very well on camlocks and on the very basic locks with pins.
Single Pin Picking (SPP) is where you manoeuvre one pin at a time using a variety of different picks depending on the lock. A short hook is the most used pick and is a good starting point.
For mortice locks with levers, you need to get a bent wire shaped to the exact angle and height to manoeuvre the levers one-by-one into the right position whilst applying tension with a special tool.
Raking a camlock is a good way to start and can build confidence and excitement when you start opening locks.
For picking pin locks, try to get a 4-pin laminated padlock that will not be too challenging.
Do not start with mortice locks. It is better to leave this to the professional locksmiths.
Also, never practice picking with locks that are actually in use. If something breaks off whilst you are practicing on it, then it can lead to that lock becoming inoperable.
For picking pin locks, try to get a 4-pin laminated padlock that will not be too challenging.
Do not start with mortice locks. It is better to leave this to the professional locksmiths.
Also, never practice picking with locks that are actually in use. If something breaks off whilst you are practicing on it, then it can lead to that lock becoming inoperable.
A decent beginner set should contain around 8 or so different picks, different tension wrenches and some practice locks that are see-through. A decent starter set could be purchased for around £30.
Once your skills develop, then you might consider purchasing a more professional/advanced pick set from the likes of Petersons, Sparrows, Southord or Dangerfield.
To Summarise
Lock picking can be fun. But it takes a lot of patience. Do not expect immediate results and build up slowly mastering the basic locks first. It is all about practice, practice, practice!!
There is plenty more information (and demonstrations) on-line and on YouTube. Lock Guy recommends Lock Noob for further developing your lock picking skills.
There is also a whole ‘locksport’ community online that you can be a part of.
If you need more information, or require the services of a locksmith in Witham, Maldon or across Essex, then contact Lock Guy.
Got a question about a lock issue you may have? Why not have a look at the FAQ page or one of the helpful advice videos on the Media page.